Board Parallel Straightedge
Intro to the Parallel Straightedge Board

Looking for a drafting board for Arch school w/ att. parallel straightedge?

I don't like the ALVIN boards, but

I do like the DELUXE SPIROBOARD and the ames-draftpak boards, anyone used one and have any thoughts on it? I'm worried about the straightedges' tolerance for movement away from perpendicular if u know what i mean.

They STILL teach that stuff on the board? Geez. What's it going to take to move drafting education into the 21st century?
When I was learning drafting I looked around and found an old Desk-o-matic table and a Mutoh drafting machine for pretty cheap.
Both them are built like tanks and still solid and reliable to this day.

Board Parallel Straightedge

GREAT DEALS FROM AMAZON SELLERS

PARALLEL STRAIGHT EDGE 36in $44.10 An affordable acrylic straightedge that features an elevated ruling edge for smudge-free inking and built-in Mylar pads for frictionless blade movement. Smooth operation is provided by self-lubricating pulleys. The dual-function tunnel cap serves as a finger grip and cable channel SuppliesNet item (1102-36)...

Mayline D7262A Mobile Parallel Ruling Straightedge, 42 in. $173.25 Finest parallel bar available. Nylon bearings glide effortlessly. High quality hardware and wire make this parallel bar a cut above the rest. Mounts to 42 inch and larger tables for a permanent t-square affixed to your table. Clear acrylic inking edges are raised to help eliminate smearing. Made in USA....

Alvin 2201-42 Parallel Straight Edge 42in $125.38 Deluxe version of the popular Paral-Liner Series, with an integral comfort grip bar to control straightedge movement. The brushed aluminum surface resists perspiration stains and corrosion, and provides a convenient pencil ledge as well. The floating roller movement allows the draftsman to move the straightedge with minimal effort and then lock it in place....

There are times when you require a "factory cut" - a more or less perfect joint - say for a plywood wall. The problem may arise when the only tool at your disposal is your circular saw. Guides are one of those things that can be very useful during a potential crisis like this. There are many different kinds of guides, but the one I'm going to talk about here is a "homemade" one. You may also be tired of trying to cut wood following a pencil line "by eye", and if so, this article is for you. This can be extremely frustrating, especially when the sawdust is spraying everywhere, impairing your vision etc. We all like simple and sweet right? Well, I do. And this method is tried and proven, and if you get it down, it is extremely simple. Things you will need:

1. Several pinch clamps. Depending on how long your boards are, you will need more or less. For a 2 meter board, you would want at least 4.

2. A thick, inflexible straight-edge that's at least as long as your work piece. This can be anything, provided it is straight, inflexible, and has an edge that your circular saw can butt up against without slipping off. Remember that your cut will only be as straight as your straight-edge.

3. Last but not least, your circular saw. One thing to note about circular saws is that if they have been dropped even once, are cheap, old, or have been used roughly, their blades are often out of alignment with the base-plate. This means that when you butt the side of the base plate up against something and begin cutting, because the blade isn't exactly parallel with the base-plate edge that you're using as the guide, the tail-end of the blade will either swing left or right cutting out a wider area from your work piece. So instead of slicing nicely through removing only the width of the blade, it will end up ripping out much more creating an uneven cut.

For rough work this won't be an issue, but if you want a "factory cut", you'll have to get yourself a circular saw that's been checked for alignment. Circular saws may still "work" even after they've been dropped, but depending on how it fell, I can almost guarantee that the base-plate has been irreparably damaged. So taking good care of your circular saw is very important and will make the difference between you being able to use it for more precision oriented projects or not. Ok, enough on that. Let's move on to the method by which you will achieve your "machine cut". Now you're gonna have to measure the distance between the right-hand side of the base-plate edge and the saw blade.

This distance will vary depending on your saw, but it should be in the 25~40mm neighborhood. Again, the end result will only be as accurate as your tools and measurements, so take your time on this step. The reason you're measuring this is because the edge of the right-hand side of the base-plate is the surface you will be pushing up against the straight edge as you cut along. So this distance is the distance you will subtract from the line you want the saw to actually cut. Don't forget to factor in the width of your saw blade! This could be a couple millimeters. Obviously, your saw blade should cut on the outside of the line you want cut. So I'll go over the steps in order:

1. Lay your work piece on the table. Jack up your board with junk wood so you won't cut into your table.

2. Now measure and mark where you want to cut. From these marks subtract the distance I mentioned above and make a second mark. Place your straight-edge on these second marks and clamp them down. Make sure the clamps are placed so as not to interfere with the saw as it passes. There will be times when the work piece is too wide for the center clamps (the end clamps will always reach) to pinch directly onto the straight-edge. In these cases use separate boards of appropriate length that stretch out to the straight-edge from the edge of the work piece and clamp these down. (Note that they should butt up against the straight-edge so as to prevent it from being pushed back toward the clamps by the circular saw.)

3. Double-check your straight-edge position and you're ready to start cutting.

4. Butt your circular saw up against the straight-edge and slice effortlessly through your work piece. Take care to constantly be applying sufficient pressure against the straight-edge so as to ensure your saw doesn't come away from it accidentally. And equally as important, make sure your clamps are holding well enough so that as you push against the straight-edge, you won't shift its placement. Making sure your saw blade is sharp is another vital point. Using a dull blade will cause you to apply undue force on the work piece, resulting in you not being able to tell whether you're making good contact with the straight-edge or not.Ultimately, you run a serious risk of either coming away from the straight-edge, or applying to much force and pushing the straight-edge out of position. In both cases you end up with a bad cut, wasted time and material, and possibly a very bad remainder of the day.

Well, there you have it my friends! If you have done these steps correctly, you should have a more or less perfect "factory cut" that will fit butt to butt with any other factory-cut board. This whole process may sound difficult or time-consuming, but if you get used to it, you can learn to do it quite fast.

If you liked my article please visit my websites at Free & Handy and Your Japanese Garden for more, thanks!

Tags: art, drafting, gimme, supplies, tools

This entry was posted on Saturday, December 25th, 2010 at 12:14 pm and is filed under Drawing Materials. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.